Thursday, November 6, 2014
Thursday, August 21, 2014
kattingolartut
I've coached everywhere I've been.
I had a great team once.
Starting Five
Joey
K
Junior
K
David
R
Eddie
R
Douglas
A
Joey
(6’,
165 lbs.) was my best player. He was
undoubtedly one of the best players on the entire North Slope that year. He was aggressive. He was
ferocious. He was unrelenting. But mainly he was violent and angry. I sensed the simmering violence in most of the
males in the community - they’re warriors - but Joey’s brand was roiling, more
intense – quiet, viscous, final, scalding.
His committed and poetic drives to the basket were a challenge to any
motherfucker that wanted to get in his way.
Step in for a charge, and run the risk of getting charged yourself. By a snorting bull. Maybe later – outside. No referee.
That’s where he wanted opponents. He told me to fuck off once. I had to make a decision. I let it go.
In class, I could sometimes catch him “reading” with his book upside
down. I let that go too. He would nod at
me warily, contemplatively sizing me up.
He might even say something cheeky like, “Good book.” Overall though, I think we had a fairly
respectful relationship. I was a pretty
youthful and idealistic first year teacher, and could play ball better than any
teacher he had ever seen. Joey was cool.
Really.
Spine-crushingly cool. I could
see it. He had it. Very physically talented, all the standards –
speed and strength and athletic, like liquid…that could drain through any
defense, a natural wonder. All the boys
in the school were both petrified and in awe of him. It was like having a head inmate calling the
shots from the inside and handling discipline. If this community was still nomadic, Joey
would be leading the hunting parties and claiming the best woman as his
own. In a static community, Joey’s
physicality found an outlet on the court.
And with this savage on the floor, we could contend with anybody.
Joey was the coach’s son. I should explain that I only served as an
interim coach for a six week chunk of season while Tuukak (pronounced two cock)
was cruising Hawaii on government money – an extended conference trip. The Eskimos get a lot of money thrown at
them. I was only a month+ flash in the pan: a heroic
grease fire I like to think. But I did
hold the reins during a demanding mid-winter chunk of the schedule,
representing at three away tournaments in other villages – plane rides. Yeah, TwoCock had a firm grip on his team, as
well as the community. Think TwoCock was
the alpha male of the village? He
was. Bigger, more aggressive, higher functioning,
employed, more cock: he ruled unopposed.
Joey had been passed the alpha torch…cock – the torchcock. He was
Threecock. There was some rebellious legend
about 2 Cock throwing his shoes off and dangling them someplace high and
unreachable within the school during his own student days. In a strict
shoes-only zone I guess. TooCock had
another son: JR. He was the closest
thing I had to a post player.
Junior
was
the beefiest player I had on the team. (5’10’’
and 185 lbs.) He was carved from the
mold of ol’ Double Penis, cut of the same foreskin - baby penis. Junior/Senior in full effect. Meaning he was thickset then, but the future
belly overhang was inevitable. I worked so hard to get him to play with his
back to the basket, when he so desperately wanted to shoot jumpers and drive improbably
to the basket like far-more-talented big bro Joey. He grabbed some big
rebounds, but his talent was in put-backs, throwing in easy ones from the paint
where his frame could greedily monopolize and grow roots. I really liked Junior. Saying he was soft-spoken is a bit redundant
within the very nonverbal Inupiat community, but that’s what he was: a big
soft-spoken bear of a kid – tough as hell, but sweet as an Eskimo doughnut. (To the politically correct: the
Eskimos are not offended by the term Eskimo.
I always used “Inupiat” when I was there, not working up the guts till
the end of my time there to ask students and other locals if “Eskimo” offends, and they all laughed and
said no. The majority were also pro
offshore drilling, claiming herds of caribou would pass right under pipelines,
unfettered. They didn’t want protester
interference. They wanted money. And to round out my knowledge on the subject:
the term “Inuit” refers to language.)
Jr. had a real sincerity. I remembering waiting for him to turn in a
vocabulary test: you remember: spelling, definition, part of speech, use in a
sentence…sometimes you gots to go old school. He was blatantly stalling, all
other tests in a pile on my desk, waiting for an opportunity to pull out his
crib sheet. I know that vocabulary tests are incredibly tempting for students
to cheat on (a real pitfall of rote learning), I myself once taped answers to
the inside tongue of my Pony Spud Webb high tops.
I said, “Junior, you’re cheating. Every time I look away.”
He replied in the typically drawn out and elongated
monotone, “Not now. Later.” Completely deadpan. Not trying for irony or humor. I had to deal
with the tension between the brothers often; they were not friends and they rarely
communicated, but the pressure hung around the gym like an over-inflated ball
ready to pop (kind of a cheap simile – sorry – my foul). I actually had two sets of brothers on the
starting five, not so remarkable a demographic when you consider this isolated
island village, north of mainland Alaska, population 300, only sported seven
different last names. Ruby had a
different last name.
She was Junior’s girlfriend. A couple years younger, she delighted in
destroying my 8th grade English class. She was so awful to me. So
pissed off. Smart too. She acted aloof, but it was camouflage (she
knew her way around a rifle as well): she watched and listened for any chance
to trip me up, then riled the other knuckleheads (Jules? Levi?
Oh shit) into a distracting chaos, while smugly sitting back and smirking
at the successful sabotage she set in motion. When I came back the second year,
Junior and Ruby were parents – a baby girl added to the mix. Two-Cock was now an aapa. Mystery of the pissed off middle-schooler
solved: she had been pregnant. And
scared. Ruby had (at least) two cousins:
David and Eddie.
David
was
my three point bomber, and he arrogantly liked to shoot well beyond the three
point line. A real hot shot. He could get “off,” but when he was streaking
it was game over. He hit four or five in
a row numerous times while I was at the helm.
David was hip-hop. Most of the
village boys were heavily affected by hip-hop: attitude, drug of choice, slang,
style: sagging jeans, tilted straight bills, headphones, NBA jerseys, FUBU, etc.
– but David was a gangster. Too cool to ever have a conversation with the
tuniq (white man) teacher, his intelligence came through anyway in his writing
and general demeanor. David was a bit
limited on the hardwood by his height (5’ 3’’) and his ego. He didn’t often run the risk of going inside
and having his shot blocked or fully committing to defense. I always thought he would have been an
amazing ice hockey player with his stature, aggressiveness, athleticism and
dedication to sport - all these boys really. I could have fielded an all-world hockey team
up there. But basketball was it. They had a half-ass coed volleyball season
and the Native Olympics (jumping events/strength exhibitions/pain endurance),
but basketball was the cultural obsession. Outside recreation was seriously
thwarted by permafrost, but I could have had ice. I was always a bit embarrassed because David
saw me get
“scoped,” which is the term you use for someone that
positions their eye too close to the telescopic sight on a rifle when firing,
and comes away with a black eye. School
hadn’t even started out yet, and I was out with my roommate (fellow educator)
and a few high school kids shooting a high-powered sniper rifle into the Beaufort
Sea. My roommate was a Desert Storm
veteran with a wealth of firearms, and a proclivity for saying things like, “I
haven’t killed anybody in a long time.” I
got goaded into participating, with very little instruction I might add, and
the recoil blasted me into nausea and left a humiliating shiner. First day of school, 8:00 a.m., and I’m making my introductions to bunch of crack shots
and accomplished big-game hunters with a fucking black eye. David’s brother
Eddie
was in that first period class. (5’6’’,
145 lbs.) He differed from the other boys because he didn’t give a shit about
basketball; he was not a gym rat, preferring to cruise around on his snow
machine. But he was able-bodied and athletic, so he played. That’s just how it was/is. The community demanded it. Eddie had an amazing talent for steals and
causing turnovers, and that’s all I asked of him. Literally.
I told him not to do anything else.
He lacked fundamentals but he was quick, cunning, physical and had a belligerent
aggression that was ruthless. He was a
thief. But his real genius was in the
understanding and respect he had for his role.
And that is why I am writing about this team; that’s where this
experience surpasses my other coaching gigs. It wasn’t a team. It was a tribe. These boys were so close, mostly related,
that they didn’t even really talk to each other. They were beyond that. And it translated on the court to a mature
confinement of roles, as if they were surviving on the tundra during a blizzard
– efficiently wringing their respective aptitudes into the talent pool: leader Joey
with his scoring prowess and acceptance of being the primary offensive “go-to”
player, Junior with the grunt work of being the “inside” presence and
intimidator, David with the long-range shooting and Eddie the turnover king and
defensive specialist. The experience of
coaching these guys was a large contributor towards supporting the loony rationale
of spending two years north of the Arctic Circle.
I went up there because I was broke. By the time I had finished getting a teaching
degree/certificate, I was $30,000 in debt to the federal government and various
credit card companies. I was missing
payments and getting persistently harassed by truly sadistic creditors with
malicious intentions. I could barely
feed myself and my mental stability was slipping. I went to the Portland, Oregon Professional
Educator Fair and walked right past all the brightly decorated kiosks of top
school district multimedia firework displays of superior quality of life and
smiling groomed representatives talking teacher student ratio and cross
curricular planning interactive student-centered high technological pedagogical
bullshit and found the sad lonely desk of the North Slope of Alaska tucked away
in a corner. There had a photocopied A4
map of Alaska with an X marking the spot and a pay scale – the highest in the
United States. A ten minute interview, followed by another ten on the phone
with the current principal, and I was an employee of the North Slope Borough
School District.
Douglas (5'10'', 150 lbs.) was
my 5th man, the odd man (out), in a lot of ways. He was polite. He was respectful. He was
academic-minded. He was generous. He was serious. He was selfless and solid. And gentle.
Moderately damaged, domestically. He wasn’t a talented basketball player and he
didn’t fulfill an established role, except in not having a defined role. And I think that the intangibility of his
contribution, beyond what I’m willing to contemplate, might have been our X
factor – our edge. Doug provided me with the best moment I had in my entire two
years: he had speed, the quickest coast-to-coast
wheels on the team. He couldn’t hit a
jump shot or dribble with his left hand, but if he could get to a defender’s
hip, then he was already by. And he could make a lay-up. I constantly urged him to use his gift and contribute
offensively, but the killer instinct was hard to arouse - till the late rounds
of the prestigious Wainwright tournament.
I knew we needed more offensive firepower, and I had huddled with him
privately multiple times before the semi, and like to think I inspired
him. Or scared him with my intensity - I
probably cried a bit. The tears just come.
Regardless, he committed. He
would begin his mad dash from as far out as the three point line, head down,
arcing towards the basket with very little variation or creativity. He was just so damn fast defenders couldn’t
set their feet in time to obstruct him. He
scored 20+ in the semi and the final, and earned All-Tournament Team. It was special. Douglas invited me to be
part of his family’s whaling crew the following September, a rare honor for a tuniq I was told.
I had all kinds of adventures up there including blizzards and polar
bears and dog sled teams and the Brooks Range and things you’d expect from the
Arctic. I have a lot of respect for the
culture I got to witness and the people I lived with.
Qujannamiik.
Saturday, August 16, 2014
canary tramp
“Sometimes
the Wind Can Sound Like a Waterfall”
you
begin your ascent according to script
and
for the right reason
somewhere
between exercise and as an exercise
and
wisely,
with no end goal, you’ve absorbed the Greats
“Be
Here Now,” Bhagavan Das, mental floss
satisfied
with breath with step with rice without the special sauce
until
you heard it
roaring
you
spun your azimuth
pursued
the long hand
and
exposed yourself lengthwise
soft
underbelly
comp-ass
because
We
All Want Something Beautiful
Steps
be-labored now
past
the pointof damaged return
false
summits
disorientation
And
you
got slapped with an indifferent and stinging gust
because
you refused to acknowledge
that
sometimes
the
wind can sound like a waterfall
Tuesday, August 12, 2014
Paradise Valley
We hiked
in Paradise Valley the other day, down Taghazout way. Yeah, yeah, it’s cool: cascading pools,
smooth sunny slabs, jumping opportunities, palm trees – an oasis ripe with
canyoning and freshwater-soaking lizard-like hedonism.
But it was the French family that was memorable.
With some difficulty (unsure footing/pregnant Josie), we had navigated the river to an in-between sanctum for picnicking and solo dipping. Upriver a ways was the far point (river mysteriously burrowing below ground beyond), the deepest pool with established jumping spots and naturally terraced rock sprouting lunching tourist groups like uninspired mushrooms. Heading downriver the flow petered to a shallow lack of possibility.
But it was the French family that was memorable.
With some difficulty (unsure footing/pregnant Josie), we had navigated the river to an in-between sanctum for picnicking and solo dipping. Upriver a ways was the far point (river mysteriously burrowing below ground beyond), the deepest pool with established jumping spots and naturally terraced rock sprouting lunching tourist groups like uninspired mushrooms. Heading downriver the flow petered to a shallow lack of possibility.
We
thought we would be alone.
Big
sister was the head of the septuplepede worming athletically up the banks. Aptly.
Even from a distance, her beauty was obvious: tall, tanned, fit,
elegantly nimble, brunette – mesmerizingly and shockingly clad in teeny yellow
bikini, flash running shoes, and aviator shades. Only. In
conservative Morocco? Hackles. Wariness.
Paternal-like concern.
The
other six were a blurry fringe, hushed tones out-watted-and-witted by the blinding
and brilliant canary hue foreground. Peripheral
consciousness picked up a wealth of trailing exposed skin and familial ties,
but little else.
They
kept coming.
Conscious
of her age, and her family behind, I tried to avert my stare, but it was a
traffic accident, impossible not to gawk.
They were coming right up on us.
More hackles. Would they respect
spacing? We were peacefully solitaire,
and fiercely protective of that bubble, a cache of facial expressions and body
posture set to register irritation, mystification and resentment on the
ready. I held off on cocking the
trigger. Why not have a closer look?
They
broke rank and stride ever so slightly, informally huddling on the move. Hyper-aware, my feelers exact, I confidently
(and correctly) surmised they were discussing destination, while also being spurred
to simultaneous realization that we were planted right in front of what might be considered a
moderately high launching point into the river for the cautious – or to the
family of mixed abilities and mettle.
We must
have appeared very much the content couple in love, spread out on our India
blanket over elaborate lunchables with romantic drippings, obviously reveling
in our earned and isolated situation.
They
barged. And this is what I loved about
them. They set up shop in front of us,
within a meter, essentially blotting out the river and our entire agenda -
endlessly jumping and screaming and splashing and cheering and cajoling and
laughing and photographing. Their
boldness titillated me. We barely
warranted a glance, and certainly not consideration. Maybe there was a highly evolved feeling-out
process conducted out of my stratosphere.
Maybe there was a head nod. But I
don’t think so.
Collectively,
they gave no fucks.
Big
sister had a friend – a family friend. Same
outfit, different colored bikini. If big
sister was a 10 (and she certainly was), the friend was a 9. These two are friends and high school
teammates on some sort of running squad – either track & field or cross
country, maybe both: they were definitely mid-distance to distance runners. I know.
I could tell from their bodies, their rapport, their behavior, their
particular athleticism – hell, their entire essence. I know.
(Later, on the hike out, I watched them act out their runner mentality
by choosing to run, with a runner’s
efficiency, the steep climb to the parking lot.
Further bolstering my assuredness: they put on running shorts over their
bikini bottoms when they reached the car.
Considering their brazenness, I’m sure this was only to avoid burning
their upper hamstrings on hot upholstery.
Yes, I was watching closely, but our proximity was merely
coincidence. I swear.)
These
two were so confident. There was virtually
no teenage insecurity present. It wasn’t
that they carried themselves like far more mature women, they carried themselves
like some other species. Aliens. It was as if they existed outside the realm
of normal human uncertainty. I don’t
think they considered for one single second how inappropriately dressed they
were for this sporting endeavor, not to mention (till now) for this country, where
women swim in full burka. But that was their magic. They didn’t strut and they weren’t arrogant. They weren’t stupid, vapid, ignorant, or
uneducated. I didn’t find them
culturally insensitive or insulting.
They existed on their own plane. A
higher order. A foreign thought process
at work.
I feel I
should further address their attractiveness. Honor the reality. Tip my hat.
Fall to my knees. I would like to
narrow my focus to the purely aesthetic, but I’m not going to. Let your imagination run wild. Astounding.
Fully mature bodies, before the onset of any mature imperfections. Crushingly pretty but not prissy. The kind of
beauty that is as salty as it is sweet, just as capable of arousing anxiety, paranoia
and regret as pleasure. They’re pain
inflictors. Now…
quietly,
in the back of my mind this morning, as I work my way through this experience,
I’ve been debating on the necessity of some type of disclaimer regarding this
sketchy subject material. I vowed to not
do it, but I’m chickening out: I would put the age of these girls around
16. I can imagine them in Driver’s
Education class. Despite my goings-on
about the exquisiteness of these two, I want you to understand my platonic observations and cravings. The mental self-gratification I allowed
myself in Paradise Valley was a clinical and premeditated exercise. I got caught up in the idea of how I would
have felt about these two when I was 16.
I tried to see them that way. Yearning
was what I experienced. I just wanted to
be around them (not now, 16 year-old Adam).
I wanted to “hang out.” I hankered for interaction. I wanted face time. I wanted ATTENTION. It
reminded me of standing outside the house of Pam Hamilton in the middle of the
night, and getting off just on knowing she was behind that window sleeping. I
guess that was close enough. It wasn’t
sexual then (I was a late bloomer). It
wasn’t sexual this time. AND, speaking
of self-gratification, I have married a woman so beautiful, so fucking hot,
that I find myself no longer capable of even keeping a stable of fantasy women or
situations. The barn door is permanently propped open. The ol’ right hand has been made
redundant. Anyways…
the
girls were really joyful in a non-cheesy way.
But they were being cheesy:
tandem jumps, egging each other on, too much I Phone documentation, incessant
giggling. And this phenomenon, and all
the other contradictions, is what I think I’ve been trying to mine the last few
hours. They were somehow so delightful,
so good-natured, so beautiful, that they were afforded some kind of pass. All day, in every arena, they transcended all their flaws.
I spent the afternoon completely consumed by their appetite for joy and for life. I wanted to inhale them.
I meant
to tell you about the rest of this amazing family:
-the much
younger and fearless brother with the deep and smoky resonating voice that
echoed through the canyon all afternoon, despite being “shushed” four thousand
times
-the attractive
mom, who kept peeking and exposing her breasts to check tan lines
-the smiley dad,
snapping pictures with endless patience, seemingly blind to the parading half-naked
troupe he was traveling with
-unremarkable
little sister, gracefully unfazed by her unremarkableness
(-an
aunt/sister I really didn’t examine),
but I am
feeling the need now to mine some visceral activity.
Sunday, August 10, 2014
Lefty
(Dear reader: Going to take you back a few months for a previously-written piece: we were living in Greece and had a good friend worthy of
documenting. Please suffer me the footnotes; I was reading The Pale
King at the time.) (Also, we decided to make an exception and allow for a
few photographs.)(Also, it is written in the rarely-used 2nd person. I have no
explanation for this.)
Lefty is the first person you meet, again, upon disembarking. [1] In fact, he is the first person you see while still in the cargo holding
area, as ropes are tied off and bridge is lowered. In fact, this is the
second time this holds true – one year ago, same time, same place, same
story. This is the first inkling of a sensation that you will be in bed
with for the duration of your stay. You only and initially half-wonder if
it is possible to feel plagued by it, and lazily contemplate if it would be
right to be indeed plagued by it, but you know yourself well enough to
understand that it will actually be comforting.
You quickly gather that Lefty likes the company of a pretty girl, and you hunch that he would just be another village face if it weren’t for the girl on your arm, and you would not be thinking about him and his offer of a ride at all, but instead focusing your attention on the dire situation of being dropped off at a port at 3:30 in the morning with no visible means of transporting to the village beyond an overpriced taxi and a front to your sense of frugality, as well as a blow to your self-perceived travel-wise wit. And you’re alright with that. You think, “Use what you got.” [2] You hypothesize that Lefty likes what being seen in public with an attractive foreigner can do for him socially – for his image.
You quickly gather that Lefty likes the company of a pretty girl, and you hunch that he would just be another village face if it weren’t for the girl on your arm, and you would not be thinking about him and his offer of a ride at all, but instead focusing your attention on the dire situation of being dropped off at a port at 3:30 in the morning with no visible means of transporting to the village beyond an overpriced taxi and a front to your sense of frugality, as well as a blow to your self-perceived travel-wise wit. And you’re alright with that. You think, “Use what you got.” [2] You hypothesize that Lefty likes what being seen in public with an attractive foreigner can do for him socially – for his image.
Lefty is in pole position when it comes to picking off tourists new to town. He meets every boat and plane that docks or lands to pick up mail for the post office as well as large parcels you gather is going to some kind of seafood wholesaler or middleman (you learn later that you were correct), evident in the scenario where halfway to the village he realizes he forgot a box of fish on the ferry and you listen to him mutter “Moto Bellini” [3] in increasingly agitated tones as he wheels around recklessly and races back to the port only to see the lights of the ferry pulling away and the escalating “Moto Bellini’s” become sort of aggressive and you will simultaneously feel guilty and amused by his antics and wonder if it wasn’t the possibility of giving your girl a lift into town that distracted him from his responsibilities. You are also relieved that you are not riding in the open-air cab of the pickup like the nameless and mainly faceless dude that is traveling back there ping-ponging between cab window and boxes, probably holding on for dear life but downplaying the severity of the situation as a means of preserving dignity. [4] Your girl translates for you that yes, Lefty will indeed be in some level of trouble with a multitude of taverna owners that will not have fresh fish options until the next boat, though you remember all the wild-haired and crusty fisherman in the village from the last trip, and surely something can be worked out? He responds directly to you: “Is no problem,” giving you most everything of what you need to gauge his rate of English comprehension and speaking ability. [5]
Lefty goes on to outline [6] his pickup schedule (consisting of mainly early mornings) and the reasons behind his decision to give up the portside café he operated (owned?)(because business was too slow in the long and unprofitable winters that see the island mostly devoid of tourists off-season and the café was only open anyway for a brief chunk of time before, during, and after each scheduled ferry drop-off/pick-up).
Only the name “Stefano” is discernible, peppering the otherwise wall
of noise Greek that Lefty spits, as you drop out entirely from the exchange,
instead electing to look inwards, alternating maddeningly between three foggy
and disjointed (due to your inability to get any sleep on the ferry as you
don’t have that particular talent for catching naps while in the process of
being transported) interior monologues [7] as well as working against allowing too
much of your weight to press against the suspect closing/locking abilities of
Lefty’s truck door on careening left turns. [8] It is
explained that Stefano is another “friend” of Lefty’s that is in or coming soon
to the village. It is not made clear whether he was also re-routed into Lefty’s
favor at the port or came into his life another way. But you are forced
to reexamine your snap judgment and rat-tat-tat machine-gun labeling of Lefty
as “the dirty old man,” and consider the possibility that is was a bit
premature to be so dramatically shooting your girl “that look,” a variation on
the eye roll featuring an emotively complex wide-eyed triage of dismay,
disbelief and frustration (then, the roll), intending to drag Lefty’s
motivations through the mud, assuming Stefano is a man’s name.
And sure enough, later that very evening, after checking into “Poppi’s hotel for the night (a long-term rental in the works but not yet finalized) and accomplishing little else beyond a hyper-extended siesta, you find yourself at dinner with all the before-mentioned characters and are served the realization (and your first of many tzatzikis) that Stefano is indeed a man, and you are now charmed by Lefty’s honest and transparent intentions, and realize that social-climbing was just a projection from your own psyche, and you further realize that Lefty simply likes the company of a pretty girl (and who doesn’t?), and probably any other tourist, man or woman, that he finds interesting, though as not to flatter yourself.
Stefano is a baby-faced 27-year-old Nordic cargo pilot from Holland, and was intercepted at the airport by Lefty on one of his “runs” a couple years back. Using his obvious airline perks and generous schedule of intensive long hour workweek chunks followed by weeks off at a time, Stefano spends time on the island a few times a year. An early observation of yours: Lefty’s guileless thirst for visitor/tourist company plus Stefano’s youth, immediately apparent agreeable nature and good humor make them a well-suited pair. Your perceptiveness is rewarded when you learn that not only does Stefano fully immerse in the Lefty lifestyle when here, a sort of “Lefty Fantasy Camp” comprised of a full buffet of activities from the sedentary cafe/taverna crawling (up to five different ones in a day!) to the foraging for culinary delights in the hills - snail/mushroom/saffron, but he also now stays with Lefty in his traditional home, escalating their relationship, in your mind, and with all things considered, to more of a kidnapping.
Like any animal, you accurately and efficiently size up Stefano’s threat to your mate in the first three seconds he was clear in your line of vision. [9] He’s a kid. An innocent. He's wearing pink. He's pudgy. You wonder how he could possibly have the training/education and flight hours to be a working pilot, but you don’t ponder on this thought for too long for fear of thinking like the old person that you have become. You delight in indulging the old man’s role and status as the “connector,” bringing the exotic together for a meal on this far-flung island. Lefty is visibly excited about this pairing of guests and the dizzying array of possible conversation topics, sometimes sitting back in his chair, detached from the conversation, and wallowing in what he has assembled. And like Lefty says, the kid does have an easy and broad smile – “He always happy,” to which the kid can’t help demonstrating. Over a burnt platter of grilled fish, he even shares some pilot humor, and you laugh over-enthusiastically, recognizing the sound as an audible stamp on the warm sweet spot of your early buzz.
“How do you know when there is a pilot in the room?”
“He’ll tell you.” [10]
Stefano [11] does up the ante a bit however, when you get comfortable enough to rib him a little about his incessant tap tap tapping on his technological device only half hidden below the table line. He informs you that he is arranging a reunion/rendezvous with a stewardess from Olympic Airlines, thereby fulfilling not exactly a fantasy, but a queasy hunch about pilot/stewardess relations. In addition, he will proudly share a picture he snapped on said device, presumably from his seat in the cockpit, of an attractive air hostess scandalously hiking her skirt up to reveal a sexy garter belt, exploding your imagination as to what else goes on behind those curtains.
Up to that point, you had considered Stefano an almost asexual being, owing to previously described attitude, style of dress, and that fact that you hadn’t caught him even once eyeing your girl, even while she was scantily clad in short-shorts and thin, cleaving-baring linen top. But now you are forced to consider the possibility that he is a wolf in sheep’s clothing, if he is indeed pulling a racy chick like the pixelated beauty he shared. But your jealousy bone is massaged again by the gelled hair, trendy Euro sneakers and soft physique of your limp rival, and you happily stuff another sardine into your mouth. And with Lefty [12] now radiating grandfatherly vibes, you scold yourself for suspecting sexually devious motives from the old man. The whole plate of fish was grilled too long and burnt and at one point in the evening the proprietor of the joint, without being spoken to or prompted, yells “Speak Greek!” at you from across the room, but you are happy to be there.
And sure enough, later that very evening, after checking into “Poppi’s hotel for the night (a long-term rental in the works but not yet finalized) and accomplishing little else beyond a hyper-extended siesta, you find yourself at dinner with all the before-mentioned characters and are served the realization (and your first of many tzatzikis) that Stefano is indeed a man, and you are now charmed by Lefty’s honest and transparent intentions, and realize that social-climbing was just a projection from your own psyche, and you further realize that Lefty simply likes the company of a pretty girl (and who doesn’t?), and probably any other tourist, man or woman, that he finds interesting, though as not to flatter yourself.
Stefano is a baby-faced 27-year-old Nordic cargo pilot from Holland, and was intercepted at the airport by Lefty on one of his “runs” a couple years back. Using his obvious airline perks and generous schedule of intensive long hour workweek chunks followed by weeks off at a time, Stefano spends time on the island a few times a year. An early observation of yours: Lefty’s guileless thirst for visitor/tourist company plus Stefano’s youth, immediately apparent agreeable nature and good humor make them a well-suited pair. Your perceptiveness is rewarded when you learn that not only does Stefano fully immerse in the Lefty lifestyle when here, a sort of “Lefty Fantasy Camp” comprised of a full buffet of activities from the sedentary cafe/taverna crawling (up to five different ones in a day!) to the foraging for culinary delights in the hills - snail/mushroom/saffron, but he also now stays with Lefty in his traditional home, escalating their relationship, in your mind, and with all things considered, to more of a kidnapping.
Like any animal, you accurately and efficiently size up Stefano’s threat to your mate in the first three seconds he was clear in your line of vision. [9] He’s a kid. An innocent. He's wearing pink. He's pudgy. You wonder how he could possibly have the training/education and flight hours to be a working pilot, but you don’t ponder on this thought for too long for fear of thinking like the old person that you have become. You delight in indulging the old man’s role and status as the “connector,” bringing the exotic together for a meal on this far-flung island. Lefty is visibly excited about this pairing of guests and the dizzying array of possible conversation topics, sometimes sitting back in his chair, detached from the conversation, and wallowing in what he has assembled. And like Lefty says, the kid does have an easy and broad smile – “He always happy,” to which the kid can’t help demonstrating. Over a burnt platter of grilled fish, he even shares some pilot humor, and you laugh over-enthusiastically, recognizing the sound as an audible stamp on the warm sweet spot of your early buzz.
“How do you know when there is a pilot in the room?”
“He’ll tell you.” [10]
Stefano [11] does up the ante a bit however, when you get comfortable enough to rib him a little about his incessant tap tap tapping on his technological device only half hidden below the table line. He informs you that he is arranging a reunion/rendezvous with a stewardess from Olympic Airlines, thereby fulfilling not exactly a fantasy, but a queasy hunch about pilot/stewardess relations. In addition, he will proudly share a picture he snapped on said device, presumably from his seat in the cockpit, of an attractive air hostess scandalously hiking her skirt up to reveal a sexy garter belt, exploding your imagination as to what else goes on behind those curtains.
Up to that point, you had considered Stefano an almost asexual being, owing to previously described attitude, style of dress, and that fact that you hadn’t caught him even once eyeing your girl, even while she was scantily clad in short-shorts and thin, cleaving-baring linen top. But now you are forced to consider the possibility that he is a wolf in sheep’s clothing, if he is indeed pulling a racy chick like the pixelated beauty he shared. But your jealousy bone is massaged again by the gelled hair, trendy Euro sneakers and soft physique of your limp rival, and you happily stuff another sardine into your mouth. And with Lefty [12] now radiating grandfatherly vibes, you scold yourself for suspecting sexually devious motives from the old man. The whole plate of fish was grilled too long and burnt and at one point in the evening the proprietor of the joint, without being spoken to or prompted, yells “Speak Greek!” at you from across the room, but you are happy to be there.
[1] Ferry language.
[2] Technically, what she’s got, but as you two are together, a team of sorts…
[3] Certainly a curse word (phrase), which gets put on your agonizingly slow-growing short list of work-in-progress Greek vocabulary. It is clear that this is one which will stick, owing to the vividness and weirdness of the situation.
[4] Unless that is just your way, and he could give a damn about being seen to struggle, or more probable, he has traveled in the back of so many pick-ups that he has pared the art down to its most efficient and effortless core.
[5] This, in no way, is a shot at Lefty’s language capabilities, as you are the worst offender you know when it comes to living/visiting in/a foreign country and never achieving beyond basic survival _________ (insert language here), going as far as living in Guatemala for three years and not becoming fluent in what most consider a fairly simple language to pick up (I refer to Spanish here of course). Furthermore, you were so bad that you were unwillingly entered into a “Worst Spanish Speaker” contest within your local expat community and placed third (meaning third worst), and you felt you were actually second (meaning second worst) or maybe had even been the victor, but instead two other guys scored higher (or lower), probably being given the honor only because they were even better established goofballs than you, and would take the honor less personally and with a better sense of humor – better party fodder in other words.
[6] The reader can assume in situations like this, that you are receiving all this information second-hand, through your girl’s translation abilities. The author apologizes for the assumption that “Is no problem,” would be enough to establish the fact that Lefty’s English capabilities equip him with the ability to recognize key vocabulary aiding in general comprehension and simple responses, but in no way give him (and therefore the two of you) the ability to discuss higher order concepts or specifics of any kind.
[7]
B) “You will never learn this way. Why don’t you have a textbook or some other kind of aid? Why are you so unprepared?”
C) “Have you really put yourself in this position again? Imagine all the time you are going to spend outside of any given conversation trying to force a look on your face that expresses interest and contentment and not the reality of soul-crushing tedium.”
[8] The three characters here are all riding in the front seat of Lefty’s truck. The small rear backseat area, the kind where seats can be folded down, is full of things you would imagine in a truck of this type, in a place like this, and being driven by a man like this: buckets, rope, fishing gear, old boxes, empty cigarette packs, liquids (?), hoses/tubing, tools, and so on. The main protagonist’s girl is sitting in the middle, somewhat uncomfortably, as she has to contort, or at least raise left buttock, every time Lefty shifts gears. The protagonist only slightly wonders if a feel is being copped each time this happens, and figures the least he can do is to get over far right on projected gear changes so that the girl can avoid probing hands if she should so desire, though this does put the protagonist smashed up against previously mentioned suspect door, illuminating a bit of a Catch-22, or at least a no-win situation.
[9] Should be noted that this was not only from behind (not even a full facial profile), but with the majority of his body obscured by high taverna wall (you could tell from just the visible sliver of left, puffy, cherub cheek that he sported a paunch that was even then butting up against the cheap, plastic Greek table). Further bolstering your confidence was the beaming, innocent (bordering on naïve) and obviously non-threatening smile that lit your path to the table like a lighthouse tractor beam. The effeminate fringe of his pink shirt collar poking out from Abercrombie-type sweatshirt (of which you knew your girl would not be impressed with, style-wise) was almost overkill, draping you with so much comfort and ease that you started to feel a bit soft, to the point that you almost started to crave a challenge, but stopped short of letting that idea fully blossom, and instead were thinking something like, “Okay, let’s eat some squid and drink some fucking ouzo!” by the time introductions were officially made.
[10] Not to belabor a point, but this self-effacing humor even further relaxes you.
[11] Not his real name. Upon introductions, “Stefano,” corrects you (and Lefty) with his actual name, of which I cannot honestly recall at the time of writing, but by then, it was of course too late. Stefano.
[12] Also not his real name. When first re-introduced by your girl at the port, you tried to employ a memory device to avoid just this type of confusion. The memory device was this: his first name sounded like two first names put together: Left(y) + ________. But it didn’t take. You struggle all night (and earlier during the ride), pausing, stuck before each address: Leftarnold? Leftandrew? Leftalan? Eventually you give up, and go with Lefty, gauging his reaction for perceived signs of insult or disrespect, but find none. You feel somewhat silly, like maybe you are at too mature of an age to use such a “cutesy” nickname, or that maybe you’re level-stepping this relationship to already have gone to a term of endearment, and that maybe there is some cultural line you are overstepping, but “Lefty” seems to be responding without being charmed or visibly disgusted, so you go with it. You also realize you have become your mother, and have now fully surrendered to her habit of mangling names of people and places to something more memorable to her (most famously attaching the typically Jewish suffix, berg, for whatever reason, to the surname “Green” of a couple that your parents were trying to buy a house from in the original move from Ohio to Florida. The sale was a lengthy procedure, giving her many opportunities to marinate her creation in the nucleus of the immediate family unit, rewarding her with the sought after groan/laughter combination and becoming the stuff of lore) – a habit you were secretly amused and touched by, but feigned disgust in the typical complexities of parent/child dynamics.
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